Transom, Quarter Knees & Trim

  

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Before the transom knee can be attached the final shaping of the transom must be completed. The notch in the transom is 20" wide at the base and 19" from the bottom of the boat, all measures are to the finished edge. All the notch cuts are at a 90° angle to the 15° tilt of the transom. The port and starboard angles are 45° from the top to the bottom.

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The drop off cut from the transom was saved to use as a template for the accurate angles. The template is cut parallel to the keelson with a ~15° angle to fit snug against the transom.

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Using the template a knee was fabricated from 1½" thick spanish cedar. The final dimensions should be at least 16" fore to aft and leave a minimum 3" clearance from the notch in the transom.

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The knee is secured with large lag screws and epoxy. The lag screws will provide additional strength to the transom which will support the outboard motor. 3 additional screws attach through the bottom.

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Completed transom knee with epoxy coating.

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Trim pieces are added to the hull mainly to enhance the visual appeal but some pieces do add to the structural strength. Teak trim is added to the top of the transom.

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The teak is cut at compound angles to fit the top of the transom.

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Two pieces are added to each corner between the transom and the hull sides. The teak piece on the top is the quarter knee which ties the sheer to the transom. The long vertical piece of spanish cedar ties the hull side to the transom.

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Closer view of the starboard quarter knee.

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Closer view of the port quarter knee.

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Teak is also added to the breasthook to compliment the curved inside lines of the hull. The piece sitting on top will be fitted flush to the breasthook.

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The teak piece is attached to the breasthook with epoxy and 3" lag screws for added reinforcement to the bow.

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Breasthook after cutting, shaping and sanding.

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Starboard quarter knee after cutting, shaping and sanding.

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Port quarter knee after cutting, shaping and sanding.